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Museum

Musée National des Douanes

1 Pl. de la Bourse, 33000 Bordeaux

Grand eighteenth-century customs hall displaying seized contraband, uniforms and a Monet painting of a cliffside customs hut.

The guide to the Musee National des Douanes in Bordeaux opens with a question about obsession: why Claude Monet kept returning, over nearly fifteen years, to paint the same crumbling customs cabin on the cliffs above Varengeville in every light and weather. It follows one of those canvases into this eighteenth-century customs hall, designed by the king's own architect Jacques Gabriel to house the tax-collecting Ferme generale, and through the seized contraband, officers' uniforms and antique scales now on display. Look for the painting among the museum's six hundred objects, and consider why a customs house is exactly where it hangs.

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