Les Halles de Bacalan

This guide to Les Halles de Bacalan in Bordeaux follows a working food hall where two dozen butchers, fishmongers, cheesemongers and cooks sell mostly local produce under a glass roof. It traces the Basque company Biltoki, whose name means gathering place, and mayor Alain Juppe's decision to open the hall here in 2017. You'll hear about Bacalan, the dockside quarter once overshadowed by a wartime submarine base, and how the neighborhood changed around the nearby Cite du Vin. Wander the stalls and notice how each vendor was placed beside the next for a reason.