Cours de l’Intendance

This guide to Cours de l'Intendance in Bordeaux opens with a mystery uncovered in 1899, when workers preparing to send Francisco Goya's remains home to Spain found a skeleton missing its skull. From there it goes back to 1824, when the deaf, aging painter arrived at number fifty-seven to spend his final years reinventing himself, learning lithography from local printer Cyprien Gaulon and propping heavy stone slabs on an easel because his hands shook too badly to hold them steady. You'll also hear about the Milkmaid of Bordeaux, the soft, disputed portrait he finished not long before his death.