Aux Quatre Coins du Vin

This guide to Aux Quatre Coins du Vin in Bordeaux asks how you taste a great Bordeaux without buying a whole bottle or a merchant's blessing, a question the city's powerful negociants controlled for centuries. It follows Benjamin Bouet, who after years traveling the world opened this bar on Rue de la Devise with a once-unlikely idea: let anyone off the street taste serious wine, no appointment required. Take a seat at the counter and look at how many bottles wait open around you.