Horchatería de Santa Catalina

The guide to Horchateria de Santa Catalina in Valencia opens with a royal visit in 1907, when the king's sister stepped down from a carriage on this square for a glass of horchata, plaque and all. Directly across the narrow street stood a rival horchateria open since 1836, and the guide follows the century-long rivalry that split the neighborhood into loyal camps the way football clubs do. Look at the tiles around you, brought from the potters of Manises down the road, and order a horchata with a farton to dip while you listen.