Santa Cruz, Seville

This guide to Santa Cruz in Seville centers on Bartolome Esteban Murillo, the city's most celebrated painter, who lived his whole life a few steps from this square and was known for tender portraits of street children in an age that mostly ignored them. It follows him to Cadiz in 1681, where he fell from scaffolding while painting an altarpiece and never recovered, and back to the parish church that once stood on this exact spot, where he was buried in 1682. Stand among the roses and orange trees, on what was once the floor of that vanished church.