Plaza De La Alfalfa

This guide to Plaza de la Alfalfa in Seville traces the Sunday animal market that filled this square for roughly a century and a half, from its start on the rickety Triana bridge to its official move here in 1852. You'll hear how vendors hung wicker cages on the surrounding windows and haggled over canaries, kittens, dyed chicks and later dogs, rabbits and turtles, and how neighbors both loved and resented the racket and mess it made. A longtime resident's memory of those Sunday mornings opens the story: "it was like a zoo."