Centro Cerámica Triana

This guide to Centro Cerámica Triana in Seville traces four centuries of tile-making on this riverside spot, from anonymous fifteenth-century kilns to the Rodríguez Díaz brothers, who took over the works in 1939 and named it for the neighborhood's patron saint. It walks through the hand process itself, clay hauled from the Guadalquivir, pigments ground by hand, glazes fired by eye with no thermometer, and the museum's 2014 reopening after the factory finally closed to machine-made imports.