Calle Betis

This guide to Calle Betis in Seville starts with two low stone steps at a tavern doorway, and the question of what they were really built for. It follows the fishermen who worked this bank of the Guadalquivir for generations, the fried-fish tradition called adobo they fed the city, and a bar that opened in a smoke-thick Triana neighborhood and outlasted civil war and the hunger of 1940. Look across the water while you listen, toward the Torre del Oro on the opposite bank.