Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida

This guide to the Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida in Madrid opens in 1919, when a coffin arrived from France carrying the body of court painter Francisco Goya, minus its head, decades after his death in Bordeaux. It reaches back two decades earlier to the younger Goya, who spent months painting this dome's frescoes for King Carlos the Fourth, filling the scene with ordinary people from Madrid's streets rather than solemn saints. Look up at the balcony above you, where painted angels lean over a railing to watch the crowd below.