Iglesia Parroquial de Nuestro Salvador

This guide to the Iglesia Parroquial de Nuestro Salvador in Granada asks why the Albaicín's great Friday mosque kept functioning much as before for decades after Cardinal Cisneros formally claimed it for a Christian parish in 1499. It follows the crown's cash-strapped campaign to convert Granada's Muslim majority, the stalled construction of a proper church, and the 1568 Morisco rebellion that upended the parish's fortunes. Look down at the old ablution well in the courtyard, still ringed by horseshoe arches and quietly collecting rainwater.