Bodegas Castañeda

This guide to Bodegas Castañeda in Granada turns on a simple wager: order a wine or vermouth pulled from the barrel, and the kitchen decides what tapa arrives beside it, unannounced. It traces how the free tapa vanished across most of Spain decades ago while this corner bar, open since the nineteen fifties, kept the custom alive round after round. Look at the barrels stacked floor to ceiling around you: they're not decoration, they're the working cellar behind your glass.