Plaça de Sant Felip Neri

This guide to Placa de Sant Felip Neri in Barcelona starts with the pockmarked wall behind its octagonal fountain, and the story tourists were told for decades about how those marks got there. It sets the scene in the Spanish Civil War, in a square sheltering children evacuated from Madrid, and lets you weigh that old explanation against a bronze plaque that tells a different one. Stand by the fountain and look closely at the stone before you read it.