Els 4 Gats

This guide to Els 4 Gats in Barcelona opens with the joke behind its name, the friends who told Pere Romeu nobody would come to his new cafe, and the Gothic Revival room, designed by Josep Puig i Cadafalch, where he and backers Ramon Casas, Santiago Rusinol and Miquel Utrillo built a home for the city's modernist crowd after 1897. You'll hear who filled these rooms in the years that followed, and about the teenage newcomer given his first professional commission here in 1899. Look around the walls where that early work first hung.