Casa Amatller

This guide to Casa Amatller in Barcelona opens with a clause buried in chocolatier Antoni Amatller's will: if his only daughter died without children, the house would pass straight to the city council. It traces Antoni's 1898 commission of architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch, whose Dutch-gabled facade hides a private photography studio built for a man obsessed with the camera. Look for the carved self-portraits tucked among the doorway's knights and animals.