Ofelia Plads

This guide to Ofelia Plads in Copenhagen traces a stretch of harbor that spent centuries as working land: a naval hospital, a poorhouse, and a ferry terminal that emptied out in 2004. It follows what happened when someone dumped sand on the abandoned tarmac in 2010 and called it a beach, and how that summer stunt reshaped the plaza's design. Listen for what runs hidden beneath the wide steps down to the water.