RheinEnergieSTADION

This guide to Cologne's RheinEnergieSTADION follows the Kolsch ritual that moved from the old town into the stands: slim Stangen glasses topped up again and again until you stop them with a coaster, and the Gaffel brewery's exclusive sponsorship since two thousand two. It traces the stadium's staged rebuild between two thousand two and two thousand four, built around a club that never stopped playing at home, and the standing terrace where the beer queues run longest. Listen for the concourse chants of Gaffel's slogan as you make your way toward the terrace.