Brewery Päffgen

This guide to Brewery Paffgen in Cologne opens with the horse-drawn dray deliveries that shaped its foldaway tables, then traces how, when Hermann Paffgen opened this house brewery in eighteen eighty-three, Cologne's brewers were splicing warm-fermented ale with cold-aged lager technique into a new style: Kolsch. It follows the family through the generations who kept the recipe going by hand, including a widow who ran the brewery alone and a third-generation heir who died at just thirty-four. Look for the folding tables scattered through the hall, still built to let a loaded cart pass.