Neukölln

This guide to Neukölln in Berlin opens with a 2006 letter from teachers at the Rütli school, warning they could no longer control their classrooms, and the television footage of a student riot that made international headlines. It follows the twist journalists later admitted to, and reaches back a century to Rixdorf, the neighborhood's earlier name, notorious enough for its taverns and dance halls that it inspired a mocking song across Germany. Walk the same stairwells and corner shops the guide describes as you listen.