Malecón of Havana

This guide to the Malecón in Havana starts with Abdel, a schoolteacher who fishes the seawall for dinner on a teacher's salary, and Fernando, a construction worker whose homemade rig chases tarpon far past the reef. It follows what a caught fish is actually worth on the island's private markets, and how patience along this wall becomes an unpaid second job. It also traces the promenade itself, begun under American occupation in 1901 and extended by successive governments over five decades. Look down at low tide and you will likely still find someone working the rocks below.