PLAZA DE LA PAZ

This guide to Plaza de la Paz in Cartagena follows the vendors selling sunglasses and selfie sticks beneath a peace monument, on ground that was Boca del Puente until 1997, a drawbridge over a moat into the walled city. You'll hear why a mayor cleared the crossing and named the new square for peace, and how the same block once served a slave market before it became the sweet stalls of the Portal de los Dulces. Look for the Clock Tower behind you, where the vendors' day begins each morning.