La Cevichería

This guide to La Cevicheria in Cartagena follows chef Jorge Escandon on the day in 2008 when Anthony Bourdain's film crew showed up for an episode of No Reservations and he improvised a ceviche sauce from corozo, a tart Caribbean fruit, rather than reaching for a familiar recipe. Along the way it explains the kitchen chemistry that turns raw fish opaque without heat, and traces Escandon's path from working the sea to opening this shopfront near Plaza San Diego. That improvised sauce, made once in front of Bourdain's cameras, was never repeated exactly the same way again.