Iglesia de Santo Toribio

This guide to Iglesia de Santo Toribio in Cartagena's old city opens beneath the only baroque altarpiece left standing in town, and asks how a plain stone chapel begun in 1666 as a tribute to one saint ended up rededicated to another. It follows the unnamed carpenters who carved its Mudejar paneling, and the gilder Emiliano Luque Garcia who regilded the whole retablo by hand centuries later. A second story waits behind glass on the wall to your left, from a Sunday mass interrupted mid-siege.