National Museum of Fine Arts

This guide to the National Museum of Fine Arts in Santiago follows Fernando Gutierrez, the architect who has spent seven years keeping the building's Belgian iron-and-glass dome from leaking. You'll hear how the dome arrived from Belgium in 1907 as an iron skeleton fitted with twenty-four hundred glass panes, raised in time for Chile's centennial in 1910, and how every tremor and gust still flexes that frame just enough to crack its seals. Look up at the central staircase, and you're standing under the one leak nobody has managed to trace.