Grünmarkt

This guide to the Grunmarkt in Salzburg follows the vendors who still hawk horseradish and hot frankfurters here before most of the city has had coffee, and asks how this trade survived when tourism swallowed so much else. It traces the ground itself back to the Frauengarten, a walled garden tended by nuns from the abbey of Saint Peter, through the rise of the Collegiate Church in the early 1600s and the market's official founding in 1857. Broom makers still bind twigs the way their grandparents did, flower sellers set out buckets before sunrise, and on Saturday mornings regulars gather at the sausage stand for gossip and frankfurters piled with sharp mustard.