DomQuartier Salzburg

This guide to DomQuartier Salzburg opens with French troops stripping the prince-archbishop's picture collection in 1800, leaving these palace walls bare for a century, and follows the unlikely man who eventually refilled them. Johann Rudolf Czernin, a Salzburg-trained lawyer who ran Vienna's imperial art collections, spent over four decades quietly hunting small Dutch and Flemish paintings, his greatest prize a Rembrandt barely bigger than a postcard, painted on copper, of an old woman caught mid-prayer. Look closely at her hands and the candlelight the painter gave her face.