Động Âm Phủ

This guide to Động Âm Phủ in Da Nang opens with Emperor Minh Mang's legend of a passage where every soldier's torch mysteriously went out, and the grapefruit he flung into the dark to test it. It moves through the Buddhist courts of judgment carved into the cave walls by the Cham, then to 1968, when Viet Cong fighters turned the same tunnels into a hidden field hospital. Mind your shoulders in the narrow middle passage, where the rock closes in tightest.