Chợ Bắc Mỹ An

This guide to Cho Bac My An in Da Nang follows the market's most famous claim to fame: a woman known as Co Van and the avocado ice cream cart that pulls students and beachgoers off My Khe and into the wet-market lanes. It moves past her stall to the pungent bowls of bun mam nem and the lemongrass-coconut snail broth oc hut vendors ladle out nearby, and explains why the market runs on two separate clocks. Come before noon or after the lunch rush, and bring small notes.