Bãi Tắm Nam Ô

This guide to Bai Tam Nam O in Da Nang follows Bui Van Phong, a seventy-year-old fish sauce maker who still cures black anchovy and Sa Huynh salt in terracotta jars for over a year, and his son who refuses to let the centuries-old craft fade. You'll hear how the sauce was once sent north as royal tribute before it became national heritage in 2019, and about goi ca, the village's raw herring dish rolled in rice paper with wild herbs. Look for the rocks along the tideline, which turn green with seasonal moss between January and March.