Mission Dolores Park

This guide to Mission Dolores Park in San Francisco uncovers what the sunbathers are lying on: for nearly three decades this slope held the city's largest Jewish cemetery, its graves later shipped south to Colma, and after the 1906 earthquake it filled again with tidy rows of tiny green refugee cottages. You'll hear how those one-room shacks were rented out for a few extra pennies a week. Look southwest up the slope toward downtown as you listen.