Saburhane Evleri

This guide to Muğla's Saburhane Evleri starts with the kuzulu kapi, the clever little door-within-a-door that let old households check who was knocking without opening up entirely, and the distinctive chimneys built from regional roof tiles found nowhere else in Turkey. It follows the street through the mixed Muslim and Greek community who lived and worked here until 1923, and the craftsmen whose names are still tied to these houses. Look up at the tiled chimneys before you step through any lamb door.