Amos Antik Kenti

This guide to Amos, the Carian ruins above Kumlubük Bay in Muğla, follows a block of stone from this hillside that spent centuries far from home as a ship's ballast before anyone realized it once stood in the city's temple to Apollo Samnaios. It traces the stele's journey to a scholar named Fatih Onur, who worked through its worn Greek letters and found a farmland lease from around 200 BC, with rent, planting quotas and penalties spelled out in surprising detail. Look around at the olive groves ringing this hillside, some reportedly planted by the original Greek settlers themselves.