Abandoned Village of Kayaköy

This guide to the abandoned village of Kayaköy near Muğla opens by testing a commonly repeated population figure against the ruins still standing on this hillside. It follows Livissi, the Greek Orthodox town once here, through the 1923 population exchange agreed at Lausanne that forced its residents to Greece, and the Muslim refugees resettled in their place who found the rocky, waterless hillside impossible to farm. Walk the rows of roofless houses and listen for how a single treaty emptied a town twice over.