Royal Swedish Opera

This guide to the Royal Swedish Opera in Stockholm follows Operakallaren, the basement restaurant serving since 1787 that had become a broke, dated relic by the 1950s while the gilded stage sang on above it. It traces restaurateur Tore Wretman's six-year rebuild, his 1961 reopening with chef Werner Vogeli, and the working man's snack he served in the tiny back-room bistro next to the kitchen. Listen for the name he gave that snack, and how far it traveled beyond Stockholm.