Zemun farmers market

This guide to the Zemun farmers market in Belgrade starts at a fish counter one March morning in twenty twenty-one, when a fishmonger named Vladimir Pešić spoke to a reporter during Great Lent. It follows the appetite of Orthodox fasting, the river fish of the Danube, and the older trade of Swabian cheese, boat-borne watermelons and island cabbage. Best heard standing by the fish hall, near the ice.