The Old Palace

This guide to the Old Palace in Belgrade follows Herbert Vivian, an English travel writer who toured the royal residence in the eighteen-nineties and wrote down what he saw in its ballroom and banquet hall. It reaches back to King Milan, who built the palace to outshine every earlier home of a Serbian ruler, and to the state receptions held here for decades. Best heard across the street, where you can see the stone caryatids on the first floor.