Nebojša Tower

This guide to Nebojša Tower in Belgrade starts at one gun opening in its thick stone wall, cut by Hungarian builders in the fifteenth century to face the Danube and the advancing Ottomans. It follows the tower from frontier fortification to feared dungeon, and to the summer of seventeen ninety-eight, when a Greek poet with a dream of a free Balkans was brought here in chains. Best heard standing beside one of the gun openings, before you climb.