National Museum of Serbia

This guide to the National Museum of Serbia in Belgrade starts not with the museum but with what stood on its spot before it: a nineteenth-century tavern where actors, poets and novelists came to play, argue and run up tabs. You'll meet a pair of writers over a game with coffee at stake, a billiard table, and a bronze prince on horseback who gave the place its rude nickname. Stand facing the facade with the equestrian statue behind you.