Hram Svetog Oca Nikolaja

This guide to the Church of Saint Nicholas in Zemun, Belgrade's oldest surviving Orthodox church, starts with a few plain words a parish elder said to a newspaper, and follows the building's long argument with the hillside it stands on. You'll meet the wooden church before it, the Baroque brick one that replaced it, and the fires and shells that came for its bell tower. Best heard in the churchyard, near the north or south wall.