Hotel Moskva

This guide to Hotel Moskva in Belgrade is about appetite: what has drawn people through the doors of its ground-floor café for more than a century. It starts with the novelist Miloš Crnjanski and his circle of writers after the First World War, then moves to nineteen seventy-four, when the hotel's pastry shop was handed an order from management and a pastry chef named Anica Dzepina had to answer it. Best heard on the pavement outside the café's tall windows.