Bajloni Market Belgrade

This guide to Bajloni Market in Belgrade digs beneath the vegetable stalls, into a drained swamp and the Czech brewing family who gave the market its name. It follows how a city learned to drink beer, what workers struck with their spades in eighteen ninety-two, and why a name taken away in nineteen forty-six never quite left. Best heard among the produce crates, facing Cetinjska Street.