Avala Tower

This guide to Avala Tower, on the wooded hill above Belgrade, starts at one of the three concrete legs the tower stands on and the April day in 1999 when one of them was struck. It then follows the money: who was left holding the bill for a transmitter nobody could profit from, and how a state broadcaster set about raising it. Tennis stars and a folk singer turn up along the way. Best heard standing beside one of the legs, before you ride the lift.