Avala

This guide to Avala, the wooded peak above Belgrade, is about the people who came to the hill not for the view but for what lay under it. It follows diggers across thousands of years, from a Stone Age culture on the Danube to Roman garrisons and the Saxon specialists hired by medieval Serbian rulers. Along the way you meet a chemist, a brewer with money to spend, and a red stone that turned up where nobody expected it.