Praga

This guide to the Różycki Bazaar in Warsaw's Praga district follows a market that opened in the 1880s as an ordinary bazaar and turned into something stranger under communism, when official shops sat half empty. You'll hear what people say really moved through these stalls behind the racks of wedding gowns, and how a whole neighborhood slang grew out of haggling here. It traces the market from its shortages-era legend into the years after 1989, when the trade that built its reputation began to change.