Pawiak Prison Museum

This guide to the Pawiak Prison Museum in Warsaw centers on a bronze elm in the courtyard, cast to replace the real tree that outlived the wartime prison around it, its bark covered in the names of people who passed through these gates. It follows Janusz Korczak, the doctor who ran an orphanage across town, arrested here in the autumn of 1940 for refusing to remove his cap to a guard. The cells around you were built for a few hundred people and, by the war's later years, held closer to three thousand.