Neon Museum

This guide to the Neon Museum in Warsaw begins in two thousand five, when photographer Ilona Karwinska stopped a crew from scrapping a giant Berlin sign and started chasing others across Poland with her partner David Hill. It follows the strange Cold War-era policy that had factories bending glass tubing instead of tanks, part of an official push to light up grey, rationed cities after Stalin's death. A bank sign in Kraków once buzzed so loudly on the radio dial that residents took the state to court over it.