Real Felipe Fortress

This guide to Real Felipe Fortress in Lima centers on a narrow stone corridor and the mutiny that began near it in 1824, when a captive Spanish colonel, Jose Maria Casariego, talked two sergeants into turning their soldiers' grievance over unpaid wages and rotten food into an armed uprising. It follows Damaso Moyano and Francisco Oliva as they arm their comrades and seize the fort in the name of fair pay, five days that looked, on the surface, like an ordinary mutiny over money. You'll hear about the four hundred thousand pesos the garrison was owed, and the officers who ate well while their men went hungry. Stand in the corridor itself, where soldiers were once packed shoulder to shoulder, while you listen.