Iglesia La Ermita

This guide to Iglesia La Ermita in Lima's Barranco district follows a baker named Caicedo, who knelt at his sick wife's bedside in the mid-1700s and vowed to build a chapel by hand if she recovered. It traces how his half-finished walls grew into a fishing hamlet's church, helped along by a story fishermen told about a light glimmering on the cliffs above the water. Best heard standing at the shuttered doors, looking up at the cracked nave against the sky.