Fisherman's Wharf

This guide to Fisherman's Wharf in Lima follows Sonia Bahamonde, who grew up in Chorrillos on whatever her mother's beach stall couldn't sell and married a fisherman, Freddy Guardia, before opening a tiny ceviche stand of her own against his wishes. You'll hear how word spread from a journalist named Doris Gibson to chef Gaston Acurio to Anthony Bourdain, each drawn to fish that came off this same wharf that morning. The guide also follows Freddy, still mending nets by hand nearby on weekends and reciting the poems he once wrote for her. Best heard standing at the wharf itself, watching the morning catch come in.