Rua do Cunha

This guide to Rua do Cunha in Macau opens with Pedro Alexandrino da Cunha, a Portuguese governor who arrived in 1850 and died of cholera before he ever set foot in office, and traces how the lane later named for him became the city's first pedestrian street in 1983. Along the way it follows the unlikely journey of the egg tart itself, invented by a British pharmacist who fell for Portugal's pastéis de nata. Listen with your nose as much as your ears: the smells of almond cookies and jerky along this cobblestoned lane tell their own version of the story.